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    • 专利摘要:
    The subject of the present invention is a composition comprising: a) at least one sebum-absorbing powder having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or at least one styling powder; b) at least one zinc salt, different from sebum-absorbing powders having a sebum intake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or styling powders; c) optionally a propellant. It also relates to a dry washing process and cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising a step of application to the hair of the composition.
    公开号:FR3027798A1
    申请号:FR1460402
    申请日:2014-10-29
    公开日:2016-05-06
    发明作者:Lionel Aubert；Nathalie Beau
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] COMPOSITION BASED ON SEBUM-COATING AND / OR ABSORBENT POWDER In the field of washing keratin materials, dry shampoos have existed for many years, either in powdery form or in aerosol form. They allow to eliminate the excess of sebum in a fast way without wetting the hair. They act by seizing the sebum by absorption thanks to powders chosen for their absorbing qualities of sebum.
    [0002] The powders employed may be of mineral, organic or synthetic origin and may be derivatives of wheat starch, rice and maize. In practice, the dry shampoos on offer are not entirely satisfactory. Their styling properties, such as volume contribution to the hair and detachment of the roots, are generally very limited. In addition, they do not eliminate the excess sebum on the scalp and inconvenience such as irritation or odor. In addition, the stability of shampoos comprising powders is difficult to obtain. There is therefore a need to develop a new composition of a dry shampoo that offers both an optimal cleaning activity and a volume contribution to the hair, with improved stability. The Applicant has surprisingly and advantageously found that the use of at least one absorbent powder of sebum and / or of a styling powder in combination with at least one zinc salt other than the absorbing and / or styling powders made it possible to offer the cleaning properties expected from a dry shampoo as well as styling properties such as a volume and mass contribution to the hair. The compositions according to the invention provide a soothing and / or deodorizing effect on the scalp. Moreover, the composition of the invention has improved stability. When the composition is in aerosol form, the composition can be delivered satisfactorily. Moreover, the composition of the invention leaves less white residues than the products conventionally used. Finally, the composition of the invention has a good tolerance to the scalp.
    [0003] The subject of the invention is therefore a composition comprising: a) at least one sebum-absorbing powder having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or at least one styling powder; b) at least one zinc salt; different from sebum-absorbing powders having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or styling powders; c) optionally a propellant. Preferably, the composition is anhydrous. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and / or a composition which does not contain water. added, that is to say that the water optionally present in the composition according to the invention is more particularly bound water, as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.
    [0004] According to the invention, the composition may comprise one or more sebum-absorbing powders having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "absorbent sebum powder" means a powder capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing sebum which has a sebum uptake of greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g. Sebum intake is the amount of sebum absorbed and / or adsorbed by the powder. It is expressed in ml of sebum per 100 g. of powder and measured using the method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30022.
    [0005] Powder oil intake corresponds to the amount of sebum absorbed on the available powder surface by measuring the Wet point as shown below. The measurement method is as follows: a quantity m (in grams) of between 0.5 and 5 grams of powder is placed on a glass plate, the quantity depending on the density of the powder, then the solution is added drop by drop. artificial sebum having the following composition: - triolein 29% by weight - oleic acid 28.5% by weight - oleyl oleate 18.5% by weight - Squalene 14% by weight - Cholesterol 7% by weight - Cholesterol palmitate 3 % by weight After addition of 4 to 5 drops of artificial sebum, the artificial sebum is incorporated in the powder using a spatula and artificial sebum is added until the formation of conglomerates of artificial sebum and of powder. From this moment, the artificial sebum is added at a rate of one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of artificial sebum is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. We then note the volume Vs in ml of artificial sebum used. Sebum intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The absorbent powder (s) of sebum (s) used in the composition according to the invention has (s) a sebum intake preferably, ranging from 35 to 1000 ml / 100 g, more preferably 35 to 800 ml / 100 g.
    [0006] Advantageously, the particle absorbing sebum may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 150 m 2 / g, preferably greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, better still greater than 500 m 2 / g, and preferably greater than 600 m 2 / g, and in particular less than 1500 m2 / g. The "BET surface area" is determined according to the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (therefore micropores included) of the particle, and in particular of the powder. The sebum absorbent powder may be a mineral powder or an organic powder. More specifically, the absorbent sebum powder may be chosen from: starches, calcium silicates, perlites, zeolites, polylactic acids, silicas, polyamide powders (nylonO), acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, poly (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), poly (allyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; the elastomeric silicone powders, in particular obtained by polymerization of organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (in particular two vinyl groups) in the presence of platinum catalyst; and their mixtures. The sebum absorbent powder may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
    [0007] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Starches useful in the present invention are, for example, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch, and cassava starch. .
    [0008] The starches can be modified or not. A modified starch is a starch which has been modified by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking, or enzymatic conversion. . Nonlimiting examples of modified starch include aluminum octenylsuccinate starch, octenylsuccinate sodium starch, octenylsuccinate calcium starch, diamidon phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, and sodium glycolate starch. In a particular embodiment, the starch is a starch octenyl succinate, in particular aluminum, the starch being corn, wheat or rice. Mention may in particular be made of the product offered by AKZO NOBEL under the name DRY FLO PLUS.
    [0009] Preferably, the calcium silicates used as sebum-absorbing powder has a sebum uptake greater than 200 ml / 100 g, more preferably between 400 ml / 100 g and 600 ml / 100 g, more preferably approximately 475 ml / 100 g. . The specific surface area (BET) preferably ranges from about 150 m 2 / g to 600 m 2 / g, more preferably from 300 m 2 / g to 600 m 2 / g, and even more preferably from 310 m 2 / g to 350 m 2 / g. boy Wut. The particle size of the silicates is preferably less than 20 micrometers. These calcium silicates are generally prepared by reacting reactive silica with an alkaline earth metal reagent, preferably an alkaline earth metal oxide or hydroxide, and an aluminum source such as sodium aluminate or aluminum oxide. alumina. Since the final properties of the silicate are functions of the reactivity of the silica, the preferred silica source is the reaction product of a soluble silicate, such as sodium silicate, and a mineral acid such as sulfuric acid. Suitable amorphous synthetic alkaline earth metal silicates are manufactured by JM Huber Corporation and sold under the names Hubersorb®. Methods of preparing these silicas are disclosed in more detail in US Patent 4,557,916. Other suitable silicates are available from JM Huber Corporation such as sodium aluminosilicate sold under the tradename Zeolexg and magnesium aluminosilicate. sodium sold under the brand name Hydrex®.
    [0010] Can also be used as sebum absorbent powder, the perlites which are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and which have the composition: 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica 5iO 2 12.0-15.0% by weight aluminum oxide oxide A1203 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na 2 O 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K 2 O 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe 2 O 3 O 2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO 0.05-0.15% TiO2 titanium oxide.
    [0011] As examples of zeolites, mention may in particular be made of sodium or potassium aluminosilicate compounds such as the product provided by ZEOCHEM under the name XMOL. The polylactic acids that can be used in the present invention are in particular AKZONOBEL ACCUREL EP600 or the product proposed under the name LACTIC ACID POLYMER 9105 by DAJAC LABS. As silica powder, mention may be made of: the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 by the company MYOSHI; "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33" by the company ASAHI GLASS; polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H 33, SA Sunsphere® H53 by ASAHI GLASS. As nylon powder, mention may be made of the nylon powder sold under the name ORGASOLO 4000 by the company ATOCHEM. As the acrylic polymer powder, mention may be made of: the polymethyl methacrylate powders sold under the name COVABEADO LH85 by the company VVACKHERR; the poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER by the company Dow Corning; GANZPEARLO GMP-0820 by the company 15 GANZ CHEMICAL; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name POLY-PORE® L200 and POLY-PORE® E200 by AMCOL Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; the latter have in particular sebum intake greater than or equal to 1 ml / g, better still ranging from 1 ml / g to 20 ml / g; The ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders sold under the name Polytrapo 6603 from the company Dow Corning. As elastomeric silicone powder, mention may be made of the powders sold under the names "Trefil® Powder E-505C" and "Trefil® Powder E-506C" by the company Dow Corning. Preferably, the sebum absorbent powder is selected from modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates, and in particular aluminum, perlite, polylactic acids, and zeolites, more preferably from starch octenylsuccinates. The absorbent powder (s) of sebum (s) may be present in an amount of preferably from 0.1 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also comprise one or more hair styling powders that are different from sebum-absorbing powders.
    [0012] By "styling powder" is meant a powder consisting of one or more mineral compound (s) insoluble in water having an ability to shaping the hair or the durability of this shaping . The mineral compound (s) insoluble in water are selected from carbonates, oxides and metal sulfates and silicates containing magnesium. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "insoluble in water" means a compound whose solubility at spontaneous pH in water at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1%. By way of examples, mention may be made more particularly of carbonates, oxides and sulphates of alkaline-earth metals such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium and radium, better magnesium and calcium; oxides, sulphates and carbonates of aluminum, gallium and indium; and magnesium-containing silicates, in particular those containing a magnesium content greater than 10% by weight (in dry basis) expressed as magnesium oxide, such as L-Mg-Na silicates, such as Laponite XLG supplied by the company ROCKVVOOD . More preferably, use will be made of calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, alumina, barium sulfate, and / or magnesium oxide, and more preferably calcium carbonate. Preferably, these compounds have an average particle size of 20 to 50 μm, as the mineral compound (s) insoluble in water. The mineral compound (s) insoluble in water may be present in an amount of from 0.1 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0013] According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more zinc salts other than sebum-absorbing powders having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or styling powders. The zinc salts according to the invention can be of organic or mineral nature.
    [0014] When the zinc salt is an organic acid salt, it may contain one or more carboxylic acid (-COOH) and / or sulfonic acid (-503H), and / or phosphonic acid (-H2PO3), and / or acid functions. phosphinic (-H2PO2 or = HPO2), and / or phosphinous acid (= POH). Preferably, the organic acid according to the invention contains one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulphonic acid functions.
    [0015] The organic acid according to the invention may be saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. The organic zinc salt according to the invention may be chosen in particular from zinc gluconate, zinc lactate, zinc glycinate, zinc aspartate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc salicylate, zinc citrate, zinc acetate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc pirithione and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "inorganic salts" means inorganic salts, that is to say not having in their structure a carbon atom bonded to at least one hydrogen atom. Mineral salts are salts resulting from the action of a mineral acid or a mineral base on zinc. Among the inorganic salts, mention may be made of halides such as chloride, fluoride and iodide; sulphate, phosphate, nitrate, carbonate, zinc perchlorate and mixtures thereof.
    [0016] Preferably, the zinc mineral salts used are zinc sulfate, zinc phosphate and zinc chloride. The zinc mineral salts can be introduced in solid form in the compositions, or can come from natural water, mineral or thermal, rich in these ions or seawater (dead sea in particular). They can also come from mineral compounds such as earths, rocks, ochres such as clays (green clay for example) or even plant extract containing them, as described for example in document FR 2 814 943. Preferably, zinc salt is an organic salt. Preferably, the zinc salt is selected from zinc gluconate, zinc salycilate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc pirithione and zinc pidolate, and more preferably is zinc pidolate. The zinc salt (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. , 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0017] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more aluminum salts, preferably inorganic aluminum salts. The aluminum salts that can be used according to the invention can be in hydrated form. Preferably, the aluminum salts are chosen from aluminum and potassium sulphates, optionally hydrated, aluminum halohydrates, in particular aluminum chlorohydrates, more preferably from aluminum and potassium sulphates, optionally hydrated, in particular alum.
    [0018] When present, the aluminum salt (s) may be present in an amount of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight. and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0019] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more propellants. The propellant that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, dimethyl ether and volatile hydrocarbons, such as in particular C 3 -C 5 alkanes, chlorinated hydrocarbons and or fluorinated compounds such as 1,1-difluoroethane and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from C3-5 alkanes and preferably n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. Preferentially, mention may be made of C 3 -C 5 alkanes and in particular propane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
    [0020] When present in the composition, the propellant (s) is (are) present in an amount of from 10 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 90% by weight, and more preferably more preferably from 20 to 88% relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0021] The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more liquid fatty substances. By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), that is to say with a solubility of less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%. Preferably, the fatty substances are non-siliceous, that is to say that their structure does not comprise a silicon atom. They generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and not including a siloxane group.
    [0022] In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). They preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at the temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate. The liquid fatty substances that may be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain a carboxylic acid function COOH. Preferably, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, they are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
    [0023] By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), of mineral or vegetable origin. or synthetic. More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, 06-016 alkanes. As examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal or synthetic mineral origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the Parléam® brand by NOF Corporation, the squalane. In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils or petroleum jelly. By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.
    [0024] Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
    [0025] Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
    [0026] The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.
    [0027] These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, and undecylenic alcohol. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred. By liquid fatty esters is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).
    [0028] The esters are preferably the liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyhydric aliphatic and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, linear or branched C 1 -C 26, the total number of the carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of 2 ethylhexyl, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate. It is also possible to use the di- or tricarboxylic acid esters at 04-022 and C 1 -C 22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-tri-non-sugar alcohols. , tetra- or pentahydroxylated at 04-026. Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, di-di-adipate and the like. (2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, citrate of trioctyldodecyl, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononate.
    [0029] The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids at 0 ° -030, preferably at 0-12 ° -22. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated, linear or branched, 0-12-030 fatty acids, preferably or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters. More particularly, mono- and di-esters, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used.
    [0030] By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol. Among these, we can mention vegetable oils.
    [0031] As vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides, used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, there may be mentioned for example: triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat germ, sweet almond, apricot, safflower, bancoulan nut , camellina, tamanu, babassu and pracaxi triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, the oil of jojoba, shea butter oil . Preferably, as esters according to the invention, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used. Myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred. The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. Preferably, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin of more than 16 carbon atoms, branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols, fatty esters, triglyceride oils of vegetable origin.
    [0032] More preferentially, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, and undecylenic alcohol, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, vegetable oils. Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate. When present, the liquid fat (s) is present in an amount ranging from, for example, from 0.05 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, conditioners or fixatives, perfumes, dyes, protective filters, acids, bases, nacres, glitter. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will be careful to select these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
    [0033] According to one embodiment, the compositions in powder form according to the invention can be packaged in a container comprising one or more distribution orifices, salt type.
    [0034] According to another embodiment, the compositions in powder form according to the invention may be packaged in an aerosol device consisting of a container comprising the composition and by a means for dispensing said composition. According to this embodiment, the container is pressurized. The container may be opaque or transparent. It may be glass, polymeric material or metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective varnish. The container may then contain both the propellant (s) and the other ingredients of the composition, in a single compartment, or alternatively in two compartments. According to this last variant, the container may be constituted by an external aerosol can comprising an internal bag hermetically welded to a valve. The various ingredients of the composition are introduced into the inner bag and a propellant is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to release the product in the form of a spray. The container is equipped at its upper end with a valve ensuring the tightness of the system. For example, a valve marketed by PRECISION, COSTER, SEAQUIST and LIN DAL may be used. The device, packaged with such a valve, makes it possible to ensure the tightness of the system, as well as the distribution of the product from the container.
    [0035] The present invention also relates to a method of dry washing and cosmetic treatment of the hair, comprising applying to the hair, preferably dry, a composition as described above. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition defined above for the dry washing and the cosmetic treatment of the hair. EXAMPLE In the following example, all the amounts are indicated in weight percentage of product as is with respect to the total weight of the composition.
    [0036] The following compositions according to the invention can be produced from the compounds indicated in the table below, composition A being able to be packaged in an aerosol device and composition B in a salt-type container. AB DRY FLO PLUS by National Starch (Aluminum Starch 10.42 74.00 Octenylsuccinate 86%) Calcium Carbonate (D50 = 35pm) 1 2.18 15.00 Hectorite Modified with 0.28 Chloride 2.00 Distearyldimethylammonium2 Myristate isopropyl 0.42 3.00 Perfume 0.20 1.00 Micronized zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate 0.50 5.00 I sobutane 86.00 - 1: Sold under the trade name OMYACARE S60 by Omya 2: Sold under the name Commercial Bentone 38 by Elementis Compositions C and D according to the invention and the following comparative E and F compositions were prepared from the compounds shown in the table below. CDEF DRY FLO PLUS by National Starch (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 86%) 12.41 89.00 10.92 12.90 Calcium Carbonate (D50 = 35pm) 1 0.20 1.50 2.18 0.20 Modified Hectorite with 0.28 chloride 0.28 0.28 0.28 distearyldimethylammonium2 Isopropyl myristate 0.42 3.00 0.42 0.42 Perfume 0.20 1.00 0.20 0.20 Zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate micronized 0.49 3.50 - - I sobutane 86.00 - 86.00 86.00 1: Sold under the trade name OMYACARE S60 by Omya 2: sold under the trade name Bentone 38 by Elementis Evaluation of the cleaning power and / or Anti-fat of the composition Compositions C and E were introduced in powder form, without isobutane, in an aerosol device. Isobutane was then introduced to pressurize the device. The device is equipped with a valve conventionally used for aerosols. Composition D was introduced in powder form into a salt-type container. Compositions C, D and E were applied to natural locks of 2.7 g according to the following protocol: Each lock was first combed and tared on aluminum foil. 0.1g of artificial sebum was applied, which was spread to the finger along the wick.
    [0037] Each lock was then combed with a comb through. 4 g of composition were then applied to the wick with its aluminum foil. In particular the composition C according to the invention and the comparative composition E were sprayed and the composition D was deposited by gravity. The composition was spread to the finger along the wick, with 10 circular motions. Each lock was then combed with a comb through. Six experts assessed the following criteria: - the visual appearance bold or clean; - the bold or natural touch; - the appearance of hair in packets or individualized; - the appearance of frozen or flexible hair; - the appearance of hair plated or rather in volume.
    [0038] All the experts have judged the visual aspect of the locks treated with the compositions of the invention cleaner, the touch more natural, the hair more individualized, more flexible with more volume compared to the locks treated with the composition E.
    [0039] Evaluation of the stability of the composition Decantation test: Compositions C and F were also conditioned in an aerosol form in a transparent glass container with a capacity of 100 μm (dimensions: 4 cm in diameter and 13 cm in height). The container was filled with 33 g of composition. The container is strongly agitated. Then the decantation rate is visually recorded by timing the sedimentation of the suspension at rest until decantation at 1cm from the upper level of the composition and until total decantation. Protocol: to: trigger the stopwatch. : time for partial decantation is 1 cm from the top level of the composition. tfinal: time for total decantation until the clear and stable supernatant is obtained.
    [0040] The results are given on an average of 3 measurements. Composition C Composition F t1 7 seconds 5 seconds tfinal 38 seconds 25 seconds The composition C of the invention takes about 3 times longer to sediment than the composition F and is therefore more stable. It is thus noted that the addition of zinc pidolate makes it possible to increase the settling time with respect to a composition without zinc pidolate.
    权利要求:
    Claims (17)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. A composition comprising: a) at least one sebum-absorbing powder having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or at least one styling powder; b) at least one zinc salt, different from sebum-absorbing powders having a sebum uptake greater than or equal to 35 ml / 100 g and / or styling powders; c) optionally a propellant. 10
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the sebum-absorbing powder is chosen from modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates and in particular aluminum, perlite, polylactic acids, and zeolites, more preferably from starch octenylsuccinates.
    [0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the absorbent powder (s) of sebum (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 99% by weight, of preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the styling powder comprises one or more mineral compounds insoluble in water, different sebum absorbing powders, selected from carbonates, oxides and metal sulfates and silicates containing magnesium.
    [0005]
    5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the (s) mineral compound (s) insoluble (s) in water is or are selected (s) from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, alumina, barium sulfate, and / or magnesium oxide, and more preferably calcium carbonate.
    [0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that the (s) mineral compound (s) insoluble in water is or are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 99% by weight, more preferably 1 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 2 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 15 20 25 30 35
    [0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc salts are of organic or mineral nature, preferably of organic nature.
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc salts are chosen from zinc gluconate, zinc lactate, zinc glycinate, zinc aspartate, zinc pidolate, phenolsulfonate and zinc, zinc salicylate, zinc citrate, zinc acetate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc pirithione and mixtures thereof, and preferably zinc gluconate, zinc salycilate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc pirithione and zinc pidolate, and more preferably is zinc pidolate.
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) zinc salts is (are) present in the composition in a content of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, of preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous. 20
    [0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent or the propellants (s) is (are) chosen from air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons, such as in particular C 3 -C 5 alkanes, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as 1,1-difluoroethane and their mixtures, preferably chosen from C 3 -C 5 alkanes and preferably n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.
    [0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, when the propellant (s) is (are) present in the composition, the propellant (s) is or are present. (s) in an amount ranging from 10 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 20 to 88% relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one liquid fatty substance.
    [0014]
    14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin of more than 16 carbon atoms, branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols, fatty esters. triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, and in particular paraffin or petrolatum oils, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, ), linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, and undecylenic alcohol, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate, vegetable oils, and preferably isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.
    [0015]
    15. aerosol device consisting of a container comprising a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims and by a dispensing means of said composition.
    [0016]
    16. A method for dry washing and cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising a step of applying to the hair, preferably dry, a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.
    [0017]
    17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for dry washing and hair treatment.
    类似技术:
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP3212293A1|2017-09-06|
    US20170319448A1|2017-11-09|
    WO2016066729A1|2016-05-06|
    FR3027798B1|2017-12-22|
    US11071698B2|2021-07-27|
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    WO2017037269A1|2015-09-04|2017-03-09|L'oreal|Spraying device for a product|FR3004929B1|2013-04-30|2015-04-10|Oreal|AEROSOL DEVICE BASED ON SEBUM ABSORBENT POWDER AND CALCIUM CARBONATE|
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    FR3031453B1|2015-01-08|2017-01-13|Oreal|CAPILLARY TREATMENT METHOD PROVIDING BRILLIANCE USING AEROSOL DEVICE|
    FR3031437B1|2015-01-08|2017-01-13|Oreal|AEROSOL DEVICE FOR SHAPING HAIR AND / OR MAINTAINING HAIR|
    FR3063607B1|2017-03-09|2021-07-23|Oreal|AEROSOL DEVICE FOR DRY WASHING AND HAIR TREATMENT|
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    法律状态:
    2015-09-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-05-06| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160506 |
    2016-09-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-09-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-09-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2019-09-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-09-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-09-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1460402A|FR3027798B1|2014-10-29|2014-10-29|COMPOSITION BASED ON SEBUM-COATING AND / OR ABSORBENT POWDER AND ZINC SALT|FR1460402A| FR3027798B1|2014-10-29|2014-10-29|COMPOSITION BASED ON SEBUM-COATING AND / OR ABSORBENT POWDER AND ZINC SALT|
    US15/523,232| US11071698B2|2014-10-29|2015-10-29|Composition comprising styling powder and/or sebum-absorbing powder and a zinc salt|
    PCT/EP2015/075061| WO2016066729A1|2014-10-29|2015-10-29|Composition comprising styling powder and/or sebum-absorbing powder and a zinc salt|
    EP15786967.8A| EP3212293A1|2014-10-29|2015-10-29|Composition comprising styling powder and/or sebum-absorbing powder and a zinc salt|
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